| Tuesday, February 9, 2010 |
Italian focaccia is a great introduction to making yeast breads, rewarding the senses with tactile pleasures and yeasty scents. A member of the flatbread family, these rustic peasant breads are made with few ingredients and simple preparations.
Because they're thinner and lighter than dome-shaped or loaf breads, the centers will finish cooking faster, avoiding the disappointment of cutting into a denser loaf bread with a gummy, uncooked center.
Carol Field, author and expert in the Italian art of baking, describes the link between focaccia and pizza, its regional sibling. "Both are flat, round breads seasoned with oil and cooked in the oven or over embers. They're called pizza in the south and focaccia in the north."
-- All-purpose, unbleached flour which blends hard and soft wheat is preferred over bleached flour because it rises more evenly and has a better flavor. Bread flour is also a good choice. With its higher protein and gluten content, bread flour forms a strong web that holds carbon-dioxide gases released by the yeast, so breads will rise higher.
-- Focaccia often begins with a starter or sponge made with a small amount of yeast, water and flour. This begins a fermentation process that develops focaccia's tangy flavor and close, even texture. Rising times for the starter can range from 30 minutes to six hours – the longer the fermentation period, the more flavorful it becomes – and it should at least double in volume before other ingredients are added. These doughs are supple and easy to work with because the yeast is distributed evenly.
Field doesn't recommend using fast-rise yeasts in bread. Although they shorten the prep time, "speed is achieved at the noticeable expense of flavor," she says. Before using yeast, check the expiration date on the package. If the starter doesn't begin to bubble and expand within 10 minutes, the yeast is probably dead. If this happens, start over with a new batch of yeast.
-- Salt keeps the bread from tasting flat and dull, and its presence also strengthens the flour's gluten strands and controls the activity of the yeast. Sea salt and kosher salt have cleaner, purer flavors. Coarse sea salt sprinkled over the top of the dough before baking provides an irresistible textural contrast.
-- The proportion of water in focaccia dough is higher than in other breads, making it softer and more difficult to knead. Flour your hands and kneading surface well and keep a metal dough scraper or long, narrow spatula handy for releasing dough that sticks to the surface.
-- Instead of brushing the baking pan with olive oil, sprinkle with cornmeal for a crisper bottom crust that won't stick to the pan.
Making FocacciaAdditional flour is mixed into the starter, then the dough is ready to knead. The process activates the gluten in the flour, making the dough stronger and more elastic. Kneading boosts the ability of the dough to rise by trapping air bubbles produced by the yeast.
Knead by hand for 5 to 10 minutes or use a heavy mixer and dough hook for 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice.
Once the dough is kneaded, it's ready for its first rise. Place the dough in a large, lightly oiled ceramic or plastic bowl. Cover with a lid or plastic wrap, which is better for holding moisture in the dough. (A dry, crusted surface will inhibit the rising action.) Let the dough rise to at least double its volume in the warmest place in the kitchen. Or place the covered bowl of dough in the refrigerator overnight, and then set at room temperature about 2 to 3 hours for the dough to finish rising.
When the first rise is complete, gently deflate the dough and knead on a lightly floured surface for about 1 minute. Then cover with a kitchen towel for 10 minutes to relax the gluten in the dough, making it easier to shape.
Focaccia dough is shaped on a shallow, rectangular baking pan. A jelly-roll pan or rimmed baking sheet would be perfect. (We found that pans made of darker steel produced a crisper bottom crust.) The dough should stretch easily, but if it begins to spring back and lose its shape, cover and let it rest 5 minutes. The dough will now go through a second rise.
One of the characteristics of focaccia is its dimpled top. Before the second rise, use the tips of your fingers to make indentations about 1/2 -inch deep, which smoothes out the dough so it rises evenly.
Preheat the oven at least 30 minutes before baking bread. Clay baking stones distribute the oven's heat evenly and form a crisp crust, but they aren't necessary to the success of focaccia. Spraying the oven walls and floor a couple of times with water during the first 10 minutes of baking will keep thinner flatbreads from drying out during baking.
Test the focaccia by inserting a thin metal skewer or toothpick into the center of the bread, which should come out clean. Bake the bread about 5 minutes longer, if necessary.
Once the focaccia is done, remove it from the pan within five minutes to keep the bottom from becoming soggy. Loosen the sides and push a wide metal spatula under the bread, sliding it onto a metal rack. Focaccia tastes best if eaten the same day it's made.
Sources: "Flatbreads and Flavors" by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid; "Focaccia: Simple Breads from the Italian Oven" and "The Italian Baker," both by Carol Field.
How To KneadHere's how to knead yeast doughs such as focaccia:
1. Bread dough is mixed by hand or with an electric mixer. It will still be rough and shaggy looking.
2. Use a rubber spatula or flexible dough scraper to pull dough out of bowl onto a lightly floured surface.
3. Flour your hands and begin kneading by pushing the dough away from you with the heels of your hands.
4. Fold the dough in half toward you.
5. Rotate a quarter turn and repeat the process.
6. If the dough begins to stick to the surface, lift under it with a long metal spatula or metal dough scraper. Lightly flour surface and continue kneading 5 to 10 minutes.
7. Kneaded dough should be smooth and satiny. To test if you've kneaded it long enough, push your fingertips lightly into the center. If the indentations spring back, your dough is ready to rise.
Focaccia Al GorgonzolaFrom "The Italian Baker" by Carol Field.
Basic focaccia dough:
1 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
2 tablespoons warm water
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water, room temperature
1 tablespoon olive oil
About 3 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon cornmeal
Topping:
1/4 cup whipping cream
8 ounces Gorgonzola cheese
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
Olive oil for brushing the top
To prepare dough: Stir the yeast into the warm water in a large mixing bowl; let stand until creamy, about 10 minutes. Stir in the remaining water and oil. Add about 1 cup flour and the salt, stirring well until smooth. Add remaining flour, stirring until dough comes together. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, 8 to 10 minutes.
Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours. (Or place the dough in the refrigerator overnight. Remove from refrigerator and figure about 2 to 3 hours for the dough to finish rising.)
Sprinkle cornmeal over the bottom of a 10 1/2 -by-15 1/2 -inch metal pan. Punch dough down and transfer to a lightly floured surface. Knead for a minute, then put into pan. Shape dough to fit pan; the sides don't need to be completely even. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise until doubled, about 2 hours.
To prepare topping: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Mash the cheese in a bowl with a wooden spoon. Beat in cream and thyme. Dimple the dough vigorously with your fingertips, leaving indentations about 1/2 -inch deep. Spread Gorgonzola over top and brush any exposed areas of dough with olive oil. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise 30 minutes.
Bake on center oven rack 25 minutes. Spray oven walls and floor with water from a spritzer bottle 3 times during the first 10 minutes of baking. When baked, let sit no more than 5 minutes in the pan before transferring to a wire rack. Serve focaccia warm or at room temperature the same day it's baked.
Yield: Makes one 10 1/2 -by-15 1/2 -inch focaccia
Approximate nutrition per serving: 141 calories, 5.3 grams fat (2.8 grams saturated, 34 percent fat calories), 5 grams protein, 18 grams carbohydrate, 16 milligrams cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 289 milligrams sodium.
Focaccia with Olives and OnionsFrom "Flatbreads & Flavors: A Baker's Atlas" by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid.
Sponge:
2 1/2 teaspoons (1 package) active dry yeast
2/3 cup warm water, 105 to 115 degrees
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
Dough:
1/2 cup water, room temperature
1/3 cup dry white wine (or additional water)
1/3 cup light extra-virgin olive oil
2 1/2 cups unbleached flour, plus 1 to 3 tablespoons as needed
1 3/4 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons yellow cornmeal
Topping:
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 cup thinly sliced yellow onion
1/2 cup black olives, pitted
1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes, drained and finely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves, chopped
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt
To prepare the sponge: Sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in a large mixing bowl, whisk it in and let stand about 10 minutes until creamy. Stir in the flour and beat until smooth. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let rise until puffy and bubbling, about 30 minutes.
To make the dough: Add the water, wine and olive oil to the sponge. If making the dough by hand, whisk in 1 cup flour and the salt, then beat in the rest of the flour until you have a dough that is very soft and sticky. Knead on a floured surface 6 to 8 minutes until the dough is smooth. Use a dough scraper or long, narrow spatula to lift the dough occasionally and sprinkle the surface with 1 to 2 additional tablespoons flour.
If making the dough with a mixer, add water, wine and olive oil to the sponge. Using the paddle attachment, add 2 1/2 cups flour and the salt and mix until dough comes together. Change to dough hook and knead 3 minutes on medium speed, stopping once or twice to scrape sides of bowl. Add a little extra flour if needed. After dough is mixed, place in a lightly oiled container, cover with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour. (Or place the dough in the refrigerator overnight. Remove from refrigerator and figure about 2 to 3 hours for the dough to finish rising.)
While dough is rising, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until golden, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in olives, oregano and sun-dried tomatoes; set aside to cool.
Sprinkle cornmeal over the bottom of a 10 1/2 -by-15 1/2 -inch pan. Press the dough into the pan, dimple it well with your fingertips and spread the cooled onion mixture over the top. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise about 45 minutes until puffy and doubled. About 30 minutes before baking, heat oven to 400 degrees. Just before baking, sprinkle the remaining tablespoon olive oil and the salt over the topping.
Place pan on bottom oven rack and bake 25 minutes until golden. Spray oven walls and floor with water from a spritzer bottle 3 times during the first 10 minutes of baking. (If topping begins to brown too much, cover loosely with aluminum foil.) Immediately remove focaccia from pan with a wide spatula and cool on a rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Yield: Makes one 10 1/2 -by-15 1/2 -inch focaccia
Approximate nutrition per serving: 145 calorie, 6 grams fat (less than 1 gram saturated, 39 percent fat calories), 3 grams protein, 19 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, less than one gram dietary fiber, 107 milligrams sodium.
Cornmeal Focaccia with FigsFrom "Focaccia: Simple Breads from the Italian Oven" by Carol Field.
Dough:
8 ounces dried figs, preferably Calmyrna
1 1/2 cups lukewarm water
2 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon cornmeal, divided
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
Topping:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons turbinado sugar
Soak figs in water for 30 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 1/3 cups water; coarsely chop figs and set aside. Warm reserved water to about 105 to 115 degrees. Pour into a large mixer or mixing bowl and sprinkle yeast over the water. Whisk well and set aside about 10 minutes or until creamy. Stir in the olive oil.
If making the focaccia by hand, mix together 1/2 cup cornmeal, flour and salt. Add to the yeast mixture in 2 additions, stirring with a wooden spoon until a dough is formed. Knead on a lightly floured work surface for 8 to 10 minutes or until the dough is firm and elastic.
If making the dough with a heavy-duty electric mixer, use the paddle attachment to mix the cornmeal, flour and salt into the yeast mixture. Change to a dough hook and knead for about 3 minutes or until dough is firm and slightly sticky.
Place dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover tightly with a lid or plastic wrap and let rise about 1 hour or until doubled. (Or refrigerate the dough overnight. Remove from refrigerator and figure about 2 to 3 hours for the dough to finish rising.)
On a lightly floured work surface, flatten dough into an 8-by-14-inch rectangle. Distribute three quarters of the figs over the top, leaving a 1-inch margin around edges. Fold in all sides and roll dough into a ball. Sprinkle remaining tablespoon cornmeal over the bottom of a 10 1/2 -by-15 1/2 -inch baking pan. Put dough in pan and flatten with the palm of your hand, being careful to keep figs from poking through the skin of the dough. Press gently to stretch dough to almost fit bottom of pan. When it resists, cover with a kitchen towel and let rest a few minutes, then continue stretching. Cover with a towel and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.
At least 30 minutes before baking preheat oven to 400 degrees. Dimple dough lightly with your fingertips. Dot with remaining figs, drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Bake until focaccia is golden and done in the center, about 20 to 25 minutes. Immediately remove from pan and set on wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Yield: One 10 1/2 -by-15 1/2 -inch focaccia
Approximate nutrition per serving: 143 calories, 3 grams fat (less than 1 gram saturated, 19 percent fat calories), 3 grams protein, 26 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 1 gram dietary fiber, 174 milligrams sodium.