First year sleeps. Second year creeps. Third year leaps!” We’re not talking babies here, but flowers, and this old English adage refers to the long-lasting, rewarding perennial relationship, not that same-old annuals fling that happens every year to even the best of us, even though we may keep saying, “Never again!”

Looking at a blank slate, year after year, is not ideal for any gardener when it comes to flowers. Instead of feeling like we’re perpetually establishing our gardens, the key is to establish a perpetual growing garden with perennial flowers – a garden that magically springs back to life when the sun begins to warm the earth each May. (Sidenote: “perennial” is actually Latin for “perpetual.”) Plus, once established, perennials require less water and have fewer pest problems than annuals.

Annuals can be great additions to brighten up your yard and change things up. But if you’re dreading that blank slate, and looking for the quick fix, you’ll spend a lot of time and money, only to see it all wither away in the fall, never to return.

Although perennial gardens do take some planning, commitment and work, the rewards are worth it.

Before heading to the nursery, you’ll want to determine a few things:

• Exposure: Will your garden get early morning sun or will it be exposed to hot midday sun? Will it be completely shaded or is shade filtered? If necessary, study the area for a day or two, taking notes on sun exposure. This will determine what plants you buy.

• Soil type: Before determining soil, dig the soil at least 10 inches down for perennials’ long roots. Break up big clods, and remove large rocks and roots. To determine your soil type, pick up a marble-sized hunk of moist soil and roll it between your thumb and fingers. If you end up with a ball, you have clay soil. If the soil just falls apart, your soil is sandy. If your attempt first shows promise, but ultimately the ball falls apart, you have loamy soil. Loamy soil is ideal, while the other two present challenges for irrigation.

• Soil amendments: Plant roots grow best in well-prepared soil, resulting in better growth and flowering performance. Organic matter like compost or rotted autumn leaves, in a 3- to 6-inch layer is the best amendment to improve clay or sandy soil, but is necessary in loamy soil. It helps keep soil aerated and moist all season, as well as feed the soil slowly throughout the season. If you have clay soil, add coarse sand, but only in addition to organic matter or your soil will turn to brick when dry.

Now comes the fun part: designing.

For a larger garden, try drawing it to scale on paper. Break out gardening books and/or get online to determine what perennials you like and which will fit and thrive in your unique garden. Be aware the Pacific Northwest is Zone 5 which is determined by our climate and tells us which flowers grow best in our temperatures.

Color, height, and time of bloom are important design considerations. Pay attention to the plant’s mature growth height as you won’t want a tall perennial growing in front or a groundcover to get lost in back.

Remember balance, unity of composition, and accent, as your design should relate to other parts of your yard and home. Sometimes less is more: a 2-color scheme involving three plants can be eye-catching and easier to plan.

Whatever your design, you’ll find that perennial flowers are well worth extra effort, ultimately allowing you more time to sit and enjoy your creation.

For questions about perennial gardens, visit Washington State University’s Master Gardener Plant Clinic and Resource Center, 222 N. Havana, on the south side of the Spokane Fairgrounds. It’s open Monday-Thursday 9 a.m.-3 p.m. and 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Fridays. Volunteers and staff can assist with topics like plant identification, pests and diseases, perennials, plant propagation, and more. (509) 477.2181.